If you want to avoid plastering but still wish to insulate your home, then dry lining can be a quicker and cleaner alternative. If you don’t want help from professionals, then the good news is that you can do the job yourself. So, here in this article, we will talk about what dry lining insulation is and how you can do it.
What is it:
Dry lining or drywall, this term is used to describe a structure covered by a dry product attached to the surface. A wall such as a vertical wall, a ceiling or a building’s roof is often lined, during renovation or new construction to enhance the building’s or a particular room’s acoustic or thermal insulation.
Throughout this reason, a dry lining (false ceiling or inner partition) is added to the lining studwork, which is fixed to the structural elements of the wall to be lined, a set distance there from. A thermal or acoustic insulating sheet (often known as an insulation complex) is inserted between the wall that is to be lined and then dry lining.
- Dry-lining a wall involves applying plasterboard to a wall so that it can provide you with a smooth finish for immediate decoration. It’s much simpler to get a successful result than with wet plaster. Plus, it’s an easier alternative to re-plastering.
- Since the dry lining is lighter than its wet equivalent, the finished construction is lighter and therefore less moisture is added to the building structure.
- In dry ling systems with the right insulation, the air movement stops completely. If the work is done correctly the property is extremely warm and quick to heat
Steps to Install Dry Lining Wall Insulation
- Check the wall condition, and carry out remedial work.
- Ask the insulation producer to check where the dew point may occur with the preferred thickness of insulation.
- The popular installation option would be fixing the insulation onto the wall directly. Designed specifically for this method, Celotex and Kingspan offer products with a vapor barrier and plasterboard bonded insulation. This can be a rapid effective method if the wall is in good condition and relatively flat. With an adhesive, boards can be directly glued to the wall for the purpose. Mechanical screws can also be used if necessary. The gaps between the boards, at the edges of the floor and the ceiling, should be filled with mastic, then taped over prior to plaster skimming to guarantee continuity of the vapor barrier.
- Determine the ways to handle floor vacuums, reveals, and other cold bridges.
- Take out anything that is fixed to the insulating walls such as curtain rails, light switches, kitchen cabinets, sockets for plugging, fitted wardrobes, covings, pipes, radiators, etc.
- Do some preparatory work on the walls.
- Have treated timber battens attached to the wall, making sure they are isolated from the surface by a strip of damp-proof course material.
- Install new stud wall or fix insulation if necessary.
- Seal and skim plaster-board joints to complete.
- Reset plug sockets, light switches, etc.
This process can take 5 to 7 days depending on the size of your house.